The trend is a sign of larger changes in one of the world's most dynamic regions.
By Martin Fackler
26 July 2008
International Herald Tribune
TOKYO -- In the elegant shops of the Ginza district of Tokyo, managers are hiring Chinese-speaking sales clerks and keeping stacks of Chinese bills by cash registers.
The paths of Shiretoko National Park, a woodland preserve on the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido, are lined with tour groups from Taiwan, for whom Japan has become the second most popular foreign destination, after Hong Kong.
Remote hot springs inns are filling with visitors from South Korea, a country that sent more than two million travelers to Japan last year alone.
Once prohibitively expensive, Japan is now drawing soaring numbers of visitors from across the Asia-Pacific region who come to splurge at its posh department stores, lounge in its resorts or explore the pristine mountains and forests in remote corners of the country.
While a boon to Japan's faltering tourism industry, the new tourists are also a sign of larger economic changes in one of the world's most dynamic regions.
Japan itself was once known for its high-flying tourists, who flocked to boutiques from Hong Kong to Fifth Avenue to the Champs Élysées. But as Japan's economy stalled for the past dozen or so years, rapid development in countries like China and South Korea raised living standards there. Those countries are now catching up with slow-growing Japan, long the region's dominant economic power. In fact, Japan's dwindling, but still potent, lead in technology is a major draw for Asian tourists, who are as likely to visit a Toyota car factory as a Zen temple.
At the same time, there has been a decline in the number of people going abroad from Japan. The number of Japanese traveling abroad has fallen 3 percent from the 2000 peak of 17.8 million, according to the government-run Japan National Tourist Organization. The decline was particularly pronounced among Japanese in their 20s, whose trips abroad fell 40 percent from a decade ago to 2.8 million last year. Officials from the tourist group attributed the drop in tourism among the young Japanese to falling wages and more modest lifestyles.
By contrast, the number of visitors from South Korea, Taiwan, China and Hong Kong almost doubled last year from five years earlier, to 5.36 million, according to the Japanese tourist organization. Those four regions alone accounted for nearly two-thirds of all foreign visitors to Japan last year, the organization said.
But far from being concerned about yet another sign of their country's declining status, many Japanese seem to embrace this change. In fact, the government helped open the gates five years ago by waiving visa requirements for tourists from Taiwan and South Korea. Asian visitors are now regarded by a growing number of Japanese as a much-needed economic shot in the arm for Japan, whose vitality has been sapped by economic maturity and an aging population.
''Asia has closed the gap in economic power,'' said Yukiko Fukagawa, an economics and politics professor at Waseda University in Tokyo. ''And Japan is slowly realizing that maybe this is not such a bad thing.''
The growth in Asian visitors to Japan is due to more than retail tourism. Many visitors also say they are drawn by a deep fascination for Japan. Now that they can afford to come, they say, they want to see the country that has long been the region's front runner, not just in high technology and fashion but also in popular culture, an area where Japan enjoys a broad following across Asia.
Visitors say they feel envy and respect for Japan as the region's only fully developed nation, even if - more than half a century after the end of World War II - they still do not always see eye to eye.
''We feel very close to the Japanese culturally, but they are also still ahead,'' said Kao Yu-jeng, a 50-year-old school teacher who was part of a tour group from Taiwan on a recent visit to the Shiretoko park. ''We want to know more about what makes them tick.''
According to the Taiwanese government's Tourism Bureau, Japan passed Macao last year to become the second most popular overseas destination for Taiwanese going abroad, after Hong Kong.
''Japan used to be a very distant presence,'' said Hsu Ya-shan, assistant director in the Tokyo office of the Taiwan Visitors Association, a government-run tourism promotion agency. ''Now, it feels a lot closer.''
Officials at the Japan National Tourist Organization called the surge in Asian visitors an unexpected result of their Visit Japan program, a 2003 advertising campaign whose goal was to double foreign visitors to 10 million by 2010. While they initially envisioned planeloads of arriving Westerners, it was Asians who actually showed up, officials said. Americans were the largest group of overseas visitors to Japan during the 1980s, but have now fallen to fourth behind South Korea, Taiwan and China.
''Japan always had this huge, unnatural imbalance of sending out far more tourists than it took in,'' said Daisuke Tonai, a senior assistant manager at the tourist organization. ''The situation is finally becoming more normal.''
Surveys by the national tourist organization show that Asian tourists come to Japan for very different reasons then Westerners, Tonai said. While Americans said they came to see cultural attractions like temples, Asians cited shopping, followed by hot springs and nature. Visits to factories are also popular, he said.
In the Ginza shopping district of Tokyo, the excitement these days is all about the appearance of large numbers of rich Asian tourists, mostly from China, who have become particularly noticeable in the past year.
Shoji Saito, manager for overseas-related business at the marble-columned Mitsukoshi department store, said wealthy Chinese were buying trendy Japanese and European-branded clothes and handbags by the dozen and think nothing of plunking down hundreds of thousands of dollars on a whim for a watch or painting.
Saito said the store had not seen big-spending tourists like these since Japan's own go-go era in the 1980s.
''Asian tourists are our new growth market,'' Saito said.
Many Asian tourists interviewed said they liked to shop here because Japan has the latest fashions first and at prices way below many other Asian countries, where import tariffs are steep. This has made Japan a less costly place to shop for European fashions than Taiwan or South Korea, though Japanese prices in general remain sky-high. They also said they liked visiting Japan because it is safer and cleaner than much of the rest of Asia.
Recently a top draw for Asian tourists has been Hokkaido, Japan's least-developed major island, with open spaces and picturesque farms.
Kao, the teacher from Taiwan, called Hokkaido's natural beauty a welcome break from pollution-choked cities back home and in China, where he has visited.
Many members of the Taiwan group said Japan's preservation of natural areas like Shiretoko, a Unesco World Heritage site, was a sign that it was more advanced than developing Asian countries, which they said lagged in protecting the environment.
As the group's bus wound along Shiretoko's rugged coastline, the tour guide, Yu Li-fang, warned her wards of the dangers of entering a true wilderness area.
''What do you do if you see a bear?'' she asked.
''Run,'' said one voice.
''Kill it,'' said another.
''Do you know how to kill a bear?'' Yu asked, only half jokingly.
While the group did not encounter a bear as it visited the park's lakes and a waterfall, many members did experience a different kind of shock at a gift store, where the prices were far higher than in Taiwan, they said.
''Taiwan is getting closer, but Japan is still ahead when it comes to prices,'' Lin Hsiao-ching, a 44-year-old homemaker, said with a laugh. ''We still have to keep an eye on every bill we spend.''
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